![]() So if an amplifier has a peak power rating of 2,000 watts and an RMS power rating of 750 watts, it really should be called a 750 watt amplifier.Ģ. This is the rating you want to compare when selecting an amplifier and is the realistic rating of power your amplifier is capable of producing. This is the power you will hear, both in volume and in dynamic response such as a cymbal crash or a heavy hit on the drum. RMS power ratings express the amount of power the amplifier will produce continuously, assuming it is getting adequate voltage from your battery. ![]() Reputable amplifier manufacturers use “RMS” (root mean square) ratings for power. ![]() The amplifier may occasionally produce the peak power rating for a second or so, if the car battery is fully charged and adequate signal voltage is coming from the head unit, but it will never produce that amount of power for an extended period of time. Peak power ratings are a marketing angle for some companies to claim their amplifiers are more powerful than they really are. In the industry, ratings like this are known as “W.L.S.” ratings, or “When Lightning Strikes”, because getting struck by lightning is the only way some amps will ever see the kind of power these manufacturers advertise. They advertise exaggerated power output specifications on their amplifiers to make customers believe they are buying 4,000 watts of power for $49.99. Some car audio manufacturers have confused the public by misleading them into believing their amps are more powerful than they really are. Here are two facts you must understand to help you make an informed decision when shopping for a car audio system.ġ. Have you ever heard someone talk about their 4,000 watt amplifier? What about when they ask which amp is best for their two 12” subwoofers? These are simple comments on the surface, right? However, there is more information needed if you are really going to answer this question or really understand what this “4,000 watt amplifier” can really do. One for bass, and the other for mids and highs.The science behind car audio is often misunderstood. I am curious to know how many watts you guys are running in your cars? I am currently running 2 amplifiers. Its because my 2012 Forte LX is a 4 cylinder and the stock alternator is not adequate. If you do have a high output alternator, where did you buy yours at? I was told that if i had a V8 engine that it would be fine to run a 1000 watts RMS. I was wondering is anyone out there running a 1000 watts RMS 1 ohm mono? Rightnow i am only able to run 500 watts RMS mono 2 ohms. Darn it!! I wanted to do this, but i was told that if i wanted more bass, that i would need to buy a high output alternator and that would cost me between 400-600 dollars. I was going to run rockford fosgate Punch P3 subs 1 ohm mono. The guy at the shop said that i could damage my alternator if i went ahead with the install. Does anyone know how many amps our stock alternator puts out? I was thinking 110 amps or so? I am not sure. But i was told from my local stereo shop that my current stock alternator could not handle the power. I was looking on a 2000 watta mono amp with some new subs. I was interested in getting more bass to my ride. How many people here have upgraded alternators? Please chime in One for bass, and the other for mids and highs.
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